Pickling Tales
As I was walking
through the supermarket the other day, in an otherwise mundane and rather blasé
sort of day, with a mounting list of ‘to-do’s’ heaping up in my flustered mind,
a sudden whiff of air infused with the syrupy aroma of fresh, juicy mangoes stopped
me in my tracks, transfixed for no
other smell inspires so much joy and awaken as many memories. Even now when I
close my eyes, I can imagine my grandmother sitting on her charpaee in her courtyard- one foot nestled under her and the other
dangling to the floor, her sari’s pallu meticulously
tucked in place, cleaning, drying and cutting a whole bucketful of raw mangoes
with such painstaking precision of size and studying their ‘readiness to
pickle’. It was like watching a science project come to life- this much oil,
and that much spice with just so much sunlight! Even the containers had to be
of a special kind that ensured the mangoes pickled well. Pickle making could be
an art, who would have guessed! And they came with very clear “do not touch until
ready” instructions. But as Adam and Eve, we sinned too- the forbidden fruit
was often sneaked up on, squeamishly opened, clandestinely tasted and cleverly
capped back on! When lady luck smiled, some was smuggled out too!
Known by various names across the country
– Uppinakaayi in Kannada, Pachadi in Telugu, Urukai in
Tamil, Uppillittuthu in Malayalam, Loncha in
Marathi, Athanu in Gujarati and Āchār in Hindi, India’s
glorious affair with this lip smacking, mouthful of tartness has been long and
strong. And something so irresistible was destined
to travel far and wide- the Mesopotamians on their way back from India took
with them cucumbers, native to India, brining and preserving them. Pickle
making has been around for over 4000 years- it even has a mention in the Bible.
Fermented
and pickled in salt or sugar, fruits and vegetables lasted much longer in times
when refrigeration and canning were not luxuries as we know them today. This
technique proved to be an effective way of saving food for a rainy day in areas
and seasons where fresh produce was hard to come by. It is no wonder that every
country in the world has its own version of the pickle- South Korea has kimchi
made of cabbage and other vegetables, a dish quite popular around the world now,
Germany gave us the sauerkraut, and pickled herrings are quite the delicacy in
the Nordic countries. I’m sure travelers on long sea voyages with no access to
fresh food at their whims swore by the piquant play of spices on their palate!
It is also believed that Cleopatra, the epitome of beauty attributed her good
looks to these very pickles. Surely, these are reasons sufficient to coax a
non-believer to try them once at least!
And
thus continued, a process that has been used not only on fruits and vegetables,
but also on meats and fishes. North East India boasts of comprehensive recipes
used for pickling pork, Parsis for pickling Bombay Duck and prawns, while
Kerala and Karnataka have been using wild boar and beef for brining for years.
It
will probably be an effort in vain to find a home that does not revel in the
sweet and tangy smell of this delicacy, carefully crafted and mastered by the
dexterous hands and discerning eyes of its creator. A dish that always
magically stirs up the fondest memories from my childhood, a dish that takes my
taste buds on a roller coaster ride.
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